Installing the One Ton Front End Version II

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Tools

Maintenance manual for your coach,available online or on DVD if you don't already have one.
Torsion bar unloader tool, Kent-Moore J-22517-02. Grease the threads of the tool before use.
Note: It is possible to do this work without the torsion bar unloader on most coaches, but the tool will certainly make it easier. You MUST use the tool if you need to adjust ride height after the installation. Given that you're installing a lot of new parts and moving things around, your old ride height settings may not be correct. As of this writing, Manny Trovao has a couple of these tools to lend for installing the kit.
Lower ball joint puller (Pitman Tool 27016 from Autozone, about $15 if you can't get it for free.)
3/8" hex head (aka allen) socket wrench for removing and installing caliper bolts with a torque wrench.
3/8" and 5/8" flare wrenches for the brake fittings.
Vise grips, to help with the flare wrenches.
Two 1/8" x ~1" cotter pins for tie rod ends if you're not replacing your tie rods. (new ones come with pins).
Brake fluid.
Red Loctite or equivalent for the upper ball joint plate bolts.
Penetrating solvent such as a 50-50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid, or PB Blaster.
Brake Cleaner spray solvent.
Big C-clamp for pulling the caliper piston into the caliper body.
A flat scrap of steel to protect the caliper piston from the c-clamp, and to protect bolts you're hitting. (I used the same flat piece I have for holding the rear wheels up when jacking the bogies.)
Anti Seize lubricant.
1/2" - 20 thread cutting die for cleaning up the threads on the torsion adjusting bolt. (optional)
Small wire brush for cleaning dirt out of threads.
Putty knife for removing layers of old dirt and grease.
Detergent or degreaser for washing parts (optional)
Paint for making it pretty (optional).
Grease for ball joints, tie rod ends, and A-arm sockets. Many GMCers recommend a synthetic moly grease such as Valvoline Synpower or RedLine CV-2. May be overkill for ball joints.
Grease gun with long flexible tip for getting at grease fittings ("zerks") in awkward places.
A large supply of disposable gloves and paper towels. The old stuff is really greasy and dirty.
A pad or piece of cardboard or creeper board for lying on under the coach.
An old blanket or some cardboard for setting axle assemblies on to protect the CV boots.
Jacks and jack stands capable of supporting the coach.
Blocks for the rear wheels and bogies.
Container to hold small parts as you remove them.
Container to catch brake fluid.
A big breaker bar socket wrench and/or a piece of pipe for an extension handle.
An assortment of sockets, extensions, and wrenches. Some of the more unusual sockets include:
- 1 1/2" for the old axle nut.
- 1 7/16" (or 36mm) for the new axle nut (conveniently, the same size as the bogie pin nuts)
- 22mm (or 7/8") for the spacer bolts (my impact socket was too big for the holes.)
- short 15/16" (or 24mm) socket for the upper ball joint nut
- 1 1/16" (or 27mm) for the lower ball joint nut (same size as Alcoa lug nuts)
Needle nose pliers for removing cotter pins.
Torque wrenches that can do 20 to 180 ft lbs.
Crowbars, large and small.
A press, vise, or bar clamp for pressing bushings.
1 1/2" plumbing flange or coupler to makes it easier to press in the upper a-arm offset bushing (optional)
Big hammer (4 or 5 lb sledge).
Brass drift punch for driving things in/out without damage.
Scrap wood for protecting parts.
1/4" or so small punch for removing rivets.
Angle grinder/cutter for removing rivet heads, or 1/2" drill bit if you have no grinder.
Drill and 1/4" drill bit for removing rivets.
Hacksaw with metal cutting blade for removing the old upper A-arm rear bushing sleeves.
Rubber or wood mallet for persuading things to move without damaging them.
Pressure brake bleeder (optional, but very helpful).
A spacer to to fit snugly between the A-arm sides and keep the arms from deforming as you push bushings in/out. This could be a curved scrap of metal, a few strategically placed sockets, or a couple of scraps and a band clamp.
Digital carpenter's level for measuring camber and caster. (optional)
Tape measure for checking toe. (optional)
Brake line, fittings, and tools, only necessary if you damage your old lines. It's likely easier to cut back and re-flare the old line in place and add couplings as needed because those old fittings do NOT want to come out. If you need them, Autozone rents brake tools. You'll need a 45 degree double flare tool to fabricate the ends of 3/16" brake line, and 3/16" pipe line fittings for the ends. Be sure to slide the fitting on the line before flaring. Get extra line so you can practice making flares. The materials are cheap.