Installing the One Ton Front End Version II
© Copyright 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016 K. Bradley
- Maintenance manual for your coach,available online or on DVD if you don't already have one.
- Torsion bar unloader tool, Kent-Moore J-22517-02. Grease the threads of the tool before use.
Note: It is possible to do this work without the torsion bar unloader on most coaches,
but the tool will certainly make it easier. You MUST use the tool if you need to adjust ride height
after the installation. Given that you're installing a lot of new parts and moving things around, your old
ride height settings may not be correct. As of this writing, Manny Trovao has a couple of these tools to lend for installing the kit.
- Lower ball joint puller (Pitman
Tool 27016 from Autozone, about $15 if you can't get it for
- 3/8" hex
head (aka allen) socket wrench for removing and installing
caliper bolts with a torque wrench.
- 3/8" and 5/8" flare
wrenches for the brake fittings.
- Vise grips, to help with the flare wrenches.
- Two 1/8" x ~1" cotter
pins for tie rod ends if you're not replacing your tie rods. (new
ones come with pins).
- Brake fluid.
- Red Loctite or equivalent for the
upper ball joint plate bolts.
- Penetrating solvent such as a
50-50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid, or PB
- Brake Cleaner spray solvent.
- Big C-clamp for pulling the
caliper piston into the caliper body.
- A flat scrap of steel to protect
the caliper piston from the c-clamp, and to protect bolts you're
hitting. (I used the same flat piece I have for holding the rear
wheels up when jacking the bogies.)
- Anti Seize lubricant.
- 1/2" - 20 thread cutting die
for cleaning up the threads on the torsion adjusting bolt.
- Small wire brush for cleaning dirt
out of threads.
- Putty knife for removing layers of
old dirt and grease.
- Detergent or degreaser for washing
- Paint for making it pretty (optional).
- Grease for ball joints, tie rod
ends, and A-arm sockets. Many GMCers recommend a synthetic moly
grease such as Valvoline Synpower or RedLine CV-2. May be overkill
for ball joints.
- Grease gun with long flexible tip
for getting at grease fittings ("zerks") in awkward
- A large supply of disposable
gloves and paper towels. The old stuff is really greasy and dirty.
- A pad or piece of cardboard or
creeper board for lying on under the coach.
- An old blanket or some cardboard for setting axle
assemblies on to protect the CV boots.
- Jacks and jack stands capable of
supporting the coach.
- Blocks for the rear wheels and
- Container to hold small parts as
you remove them.
- Container to catch brake fluid.
- A big breaker bar socket wrench
and/or a piece of pipe for an extension handle.
- An assortment of sockets,
extensions, and wrenches. Some of the more unusual sockets include:
- 1 1/2" for the old axle nut.
- 1 7/16" (or 36mm) for the new axle nut
(conveniently, the same size as the bogie pin nuts)
- 22mm (or 7/8") for the
spacer bolts (my impact socket was too big for the holes.)
- short 15/16" (or 24mm) socket for the upper ball joint nut
- 1 1/16" (or 27mm) for the lower ball joint nut (same size as Alcoa lug nuts)
- Needle nose pliers for removing
- Torque wrenches that can do 20 to
180 ft lbs.
- Crowbars, large and small.
- A press, vise, or bar clamp for
- 1 1/2" plumbing flange or coupler to makes it easier to press in the upper a-arm offset bushing (optional)
- Big hammer (4 or 5 lb sledge).
- Brass drift punch for driving
things in/out without damage.
- Scrap wood for protecting parts.
- 1/4" or so small punch for
- Angle grinder/cutter for removing
rivet heads, or 1/2" drill bit if you have no grinder.
- Drill and 1/4" drill bit for
- Hacksaw with metal cutting blade
for removing the old upper A-arm rear bushing sleeves.
- Rubber or wood mallet for
persuading things to move without damaging them.
- Pressure brake bleeder (optional,
but very helpful).
- A spacer to to fit snugly between the A-arm sides and keep the arms from deforming as you push bushings in/out.
This could be a curved scrap of metal, a few strategically placed sockets, or a couple of scraps and a band clamp.
- Digital carpenter's level for measuring camber and caster. (optional)
- Tape measure for checking toe. (optional)
- Brake line, fittings,
and tools, only necessary if you damage your old lines. It's likely easier to cut back and re-flare the old
line in place and add couplings as needed because those old fittings
do NOT want to come out. If you need them, Autozone rents brake
tools. You'll need a 45 degree double flare tool to fabricate the
ends of 3/16" brake line, and 3/16" pipe line fittings for
the ends. Be sure to slide the fitting on the line before flaring.
Get extra line so you can practice making flares. The materials are