Installing the One Ton Front End Version II

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Remove the caliper mounting bolts and push out the inner sleeves.

Apply silicone brake grease to the inside of the outer sleeve. You're trying to fill the center void between the inner and outer sleeves, in between the outer sleeve o-rings.

Put the inner sleeves back in. Apply a little grease to the caliper bolt body (but not the threads) and put the bolts back into the sleeves.

To install the brake pads onto the calipers, insert the spring on the back of the inner pad into the caliper piston and push down on the pad until it lies flat against the piston.

Put the outer pad in place and pull the two spring arms into the indentations on the outside of the caliper body.

Turn the knuckle so that it's easier to get at the back of the caliper mount.

Note: If you can't turn the knuckle, try jacking the lower A-arm up a little higher.

Determine which caliper is for the right side, and which is for the left. The bleeder fitting on the caliper should be at the top when the caliper is mounted on the knuckle.

If you can't fit the caliper and pads onto the brake rotor, pull off the inner pad and position a scrap piece of steel against the face of the piston. Use a C-clamp to pull the piston into the caliper, but don't pull the piston in past its rubber ring. Reinstall the inner pad and try again.

Position the calipers on the knuckle and screw in the caliper bolts by hand to avoid cross threading. Hold the caliper so there's an even gap between both ends of the caliper body and the knuckle slot. The gap should be between 0.13 and 0.30 mm on each side. (A piece of copier paper is about 0.1mm thick, so two pieces of paper can be used as a spacer while you install the bolts.) Tighten the caliper bolts and torque to 28 ft-lbs with a 3/8" hex wrench. Check that the gaps are still correct and adjust as needed.

The flexible brake hose end fitting has an offset to it. It can be mounted with either face to the caliper depending on your installation. Figure out how you want to route and support the brake hose. One solution is to drill a 1/8" hole in the edge of the upper A-arm for a cable tie. My knuckles had some threaded holes I chose to use, but not all knuckles have these holes. Move the knuckle back and forth to its extreme positions to make sure the hose can move freely. The hose should be protected from damage and have no sharp bends in any position.

Your calipers should each come with a pair of copper washers. These go on either side of the brake line fitting where it attaches to the caliper to prevent leaks. Attach the hose to the caliper with a banjo bolt and the copper washers. Tighten the banjo bolt until snug.

Using the 3/8" and 5/8" flare wrenches, carefully attach the new flexible line to the hard brake line fitting. Install the clip to hold the brake line to the frame bracket. I chose to leave the new clip on the flexible hose fitting and re-use the old clip.

Flush the front brakes as described in the manual. If you don't have a pressure bleeder, be sure to place a board under the brake pedal to avoid pushing down too far and damaging the master cylinder.

Check all the brake fittings for leaks. Tighten as needed.

Clean the brake rotors with brake cleaner and paper towels.

Once both brakes are installed and bled, pump the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotors. Do not try to move the vehicle if you have a low pedal problem.

© Copyright 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016 K. Bradley

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Extra Parts
Getting Started
Remove the Middle Parts
Upper A-Arms
Lower A-Arms
Knuckles and Axles
Tie Rods and Shocks
Almost Done
Notes:A-Arm Reinforcement
Notes:Separating Ball Joints
Notes:Kit Parts List