Remove the caliper mounting bolts and push out the inner sleeves.
Apply silicone brake grease to the inside of the outer sleeve.
You're trying to fill the center void between the inner and outer
sleeves, in between the outer sleeve o-rings.
Put the inner sleeves back in. Apply a little grease to the
caliper bolt body (but not the threads) and put the bolts back into
To install the brake pads onto the calipers, insert the spring on
the back of the inner pad into the caliper piston and push down on
the pad until it lies flat against the piston.
Put the outer pad in place and pull the two spring arms into the
indentations on the outside of the caliper body.
Turn the knuckle so that it's easier to get at the back of the
Note: If you can't turn the knuckle, try
jacking the lower A-arm up a little higher.
Determine which caliper is for the right side, and which is for
the left. The bleeder fitting on the caliper should be at the top
when the caliper is mounted on the knuckle.
If you can't fit the caliper and pads onto the brake rotor, pull
off the inner pad and position a scrap piece of steel against the face
of the piston. Use a C-clamp to pull the piston into the caliper, but
don't pull the piston in past its rubber ring. Reinstall the inner
pad and try again.
Position the calipers on the knuckle and screw in the caliper bolts by
hand to avoid cross threading. Hold the caliper so there's an even
gap between both ends of the caliper body and the knuckle slot. The
gap should be between 0.13 and 0.30 mm on each side. (A piece of
copier paper is about 0.1mm thick, so two pieces of paper can be used
as a spacer while you install the bolts.) Tighten the caliper bolts
and torque to 28 ft-lbs with a 3/8" hex wrench. Check that the gaps
are still correct and adjust as needed.
The flexible brake hose end fitting has an offset to it. It can be
mounted with either face to the caliper depending on your
installation. Figure out how you want to route and support the brake
hose. One solution is to drill a 1/8" hole in the edge of the
upper A-arm for a cable tie. My knuckles had some threaded holes I
chose to use, but not all knuckles have these holes. Move the knuckle
back and forth to its extreme positions to make sure the hose can
move freely. The hose should be protected from damage and have no
sharp bends in any position.
Your calipers should each come with a pair of copper washers. These go
on either side of the brake line fitting where it attaches to the
caliper to prevent leaks. Attach the hose to the caliper with a banjo
bolt and the copper washers. Tighten the banjo bolt until snug.
Using the 3/8" and 5/8" flare wrenches, carefully attach
the new flexible line to the hard brake line fitting. Install the
clip to hold the brake line to the frame bracket. I chose to leave
the new clip on the flexible hose fitting and re-use the old clip.
Flush the front brakes as described in the manual. If you don't
have a pressure bleeder, be sure to place a board under the brake
pedal to avoid pushing down too far and damaging the master cylinder.
Check all the brake fittings for leaks. Tighten as needed.
Clean the brake rotors with brake cleaner and paper towels.
Once both brakes are installed and bled, pump the brake pedal to
seat the pads against the rotors. Do not try to move the vehicle if
you have a low pedal problem.
© Copyright 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016 K. Bradley