Tie Rods and Shocks
If you're replacing the tie rods, lubricate the center threads
with chassis grease or anti-seize. Adjust the new tie rod assemblies so they
match up with the old ones. The tie rod ends should be threaded into the
center tubes evenly, with the same number of threads showing on each side of the
tube. The right side tie rod assembly (inner end, center tube, and outer end) should be the
same length as the left side assembly. When tightening the clamps, the gap in the
clamps should NOT line up with the slot in the center tube; see the manual for details.
Torque the tube clamp bolts to 20 ft-lbs.
The old tie rods were mounted with the outer stud facing down into
the knuckle. On the new knuckles, the eye is a little higher and the
taper is reversed, so the tie rod stud must face upward. You must
either reverse the direction on the outer (longer) tie rod end, or
swap the left and right tie rods.
Degrease the tie rod tapers and mounting eyes with brake cleaner.
If you're replacing the tie rods, hold the new tie rod assembly so the
longer end is toward the knuckle and the shorter end is toward the coach.
Insert the stud of the outer (longer) tie rod upward into the new knuckle
steering eye and thread on its nut. Install the inner (shorter) tie
rod end onto the steering arm with the stud pointing toward the front
of the coach.
Torque the nuts to 40-50 ft-lbs. Install new cotter pins and fold
back the ends. Do not back the nut out to install the pin.
Note: It may be difficult to get the
outer tie rod cotter pin inserted due to the thickness of the knuckle
eye. Curving the cotter pin may help.
Lubricate the tie rod ends through their grease fittings. If you
can't get grease to go in, check the grease fittings.
Work the lower shock absorber eye onto lower control arm shock
mount and install the nut. You may need to jack the A-arm up or down
to get the shock inserted. Slide the upper end of shock absorber into
the frame bracket and install the bolt and nut. Torque the nuts to 90
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