The point here is to remove everything attached to the upper and lower A-arms (aka “Control Arms”). The specific order is not always important, but some ways are easier than others.
Remove the cotter pins from the tie rod end and upper and lower ball joints.
Place a jack under the lower A-arm and raise it to take pressure off the shock absorber. Remove the upper bolt and lower nut and remove the shock.
Note: Removing the shock first makes it easier to work on the brake line connection.
Leave the jack under the lower A-arm.
Position a container under the brake line to catch fluid. Use 3/8" and 5/8" flare wrenches to separate the flexible brake line from the hard brake line. It may be completely rusted in place and you may end up breaking the metal line if you flex it too much. If you don't use flare wrenches, you will almost certainly destroy the fittings. Even with flare wrenches, it can be very difficult.
Note: Vise grips may help keep the flare wrench ends from spreading as you try to remove brake fittings.
Pull the locking tab from the frame support to release the flexible line.
Remove the nut from the upper ball joint stud and pull off the bracket that supports the brake hose. Thread the castle nut back onto the end of the upper ball joint stud.
Disconnect the sway bar link from the lower A-arm.
With the tie rod and sway bar link disconnected, you can now turn the knuckle to more easily get at the caliper bolts. Remove the caliper bolts with a 3/8" hex wrench. Remove any other brackets or cable ties holding the flexible brake line. Slide the caliper off the rotor. If it's stuck, you may need to use a big C-clamp to retract the piston (see manual).
While holding onto the knuckle, remove the castle nut and pull the stud out of the top of the knuckle. Guide the knuckle down so it's hanging from the lower ball joint.
Back off the lower ball joint castle nut so it's partly off the end of the ball joint stud. This will keep the pitman puller tool from slipping off the stud. Position the tool arms over the knuckle eye and its threaded rod against the end of the ball joint stud. Using a close fitting (possibly metric) wrench, turn the the puller bolt to apply pressure to the ball joint until it pops free. It takes a lot of force and you may need to also hammer the stud and/or eye. Once the ball stud is loose, remove the tool and the castle nut and lower the knuckle and hub assembly off the stud.
Note: If you still can't remove the lower ball joint, remove the three bolts that hold the disc/hub retainer to the knuckle. The bolts are behind the disc and a little hard to get to, but shouldn't have a lot of torque on them. Slide the disc/hub assembly outward off the knuckle. The manual shows using a slide hammer, but I was able to just slide if off with a gentle tap on the back. This will remove most of the weight from the lower A-arm and make it easier to handle while you're working on the lower ball joint.
If you're replacing your sway bar front frame bushings, now is a good time to do that. (see manual)© Copyright 2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016 K. Bradley